In the far north of Pakistan, beyond the Karakoram Highway and beneath the towering peaks of the Hindu Kush and Karakoram, lies the remote valley of Misgar. Little visited by climbers, rich in history, and surrounded by untouched mountains, it became home to the team for 23 days of exploration, first ascents and high altitude adventure.

The team assembled in Islamabad before continuing north through Pakistan's spectacular mountain landscapes. After a breathe taking flight to Skardu and the long journey along the Karakoram Highway, they arrived in Hunza, where some of the region's most iconic peaks dominate the skyline. Rakaposhi, Diran and Spantik tower above ancient settlements and fertile valleys, offering a glimpse of the scale of the terrain that lay ahead.

Turning off the highway, they entered the remarkable Misgar Valley. Once one of the most remote outposts of the British Empire, Misgar is a place of striking contrasts. Irrigated fields and apricot groves flourish beneath vast desert slopes, while snow covered summits rise above the valley walls. They spent their final nights beneath the trees surrounding the village's historic post office, making preparations alongside local support teams before heading into the mountains.

The trek to base camp followed the Baraar Valley, climbing steadily to over 4,300m. Accompanied by a knowledgeable local team of porters, the journey passed quickly, helped by conversations that ranged from mountaineering to literature and film.

Altitude inevitably made its presence felt, but an excellent camp beside fresh water provided a welcome place to acclimatise. The following morning, they emerged from their tents to find themselves surrounded by an extraordinary landscape. To the south, Shispari and the distant giants of Baltoro dominated the horizon. To the north, a collection of elegant, unnamed summits offered endless possibilities.

Early investigations quickly revealed that thier primary objective, Misgar Sar, would be far more complex than expected. Features that appeared straightforward on satellite imagery and photographs concealed steep, technical barriers, heavily corniced ridges and unstable glacier formations. Rather than commit prematurely, they turned their attention to nearby peaks to develop a better understanding of local conditions.

Establishing an advanced camp at 5,000m beneath one of Misgar Sar's neighbouring summits, they identified a potential route up an unclimbed peak via its mixed east face. Setting off at 3am, two climbing teams linked snowfields, mixed terrain and loose buttresses before gaining the summit ridge.

By 8am, both teams stood atop the previously unclimbed 5,587m summit.

The descent proved no less challenging as rapidly warming temperatures transformed firm snow into unstable slush, but by late morning everyone was safely back in base camp. Judging by the enthusiastic welcome from the chickens that had become unofficial members of the expedition, the mountain was christened Murghi Sar - Chicken Peak.

With acclimatisation improving and confidence growing, the team pushed deeper into unexplored sections of the valley. A northern glacier led towards a vast, remote cirque ringed by granite towers, serac barriers and heavily glaciated peaks. Camps were established progressively higher, eventually reaching 5,200m in one of the most dramatic locations of the expedition.

Reconnaissance involved technical ice climbing, complex glacier travel and careful route finding through heavily crevassed terrain. While several ambitious objectives proved unsafe due to serac threat and unstable conditions, the team continued searching for climbable lines among the surrounding peaks.

One such objective revealed itself on a smaller summit guarding the entrance to the basin. After overcoming a challenging bergschrund and several pitches of steep ice, the team gained an unclimbed 5,355m summit.

Dark clouds building rapidly from the south cut celebrations short. As a blizzard swept into the valley, the team descended through deteriorating conditions before retreating all the way back to base camp. The peak was named Mahal, fitting for its commanding position overlooking the upper valley.

Returning to base camp, we welcomed the chance to rest. Days spent drying equipment, sharpening tools and recovering quickly gave way to a major change in the weather.
Heavy snowfall transformed the valley overnight. More than a foot of snow buried tents, while surrounding slopes accumulated significantly more. Climbers became tea drinkers, objectives were reassessed and patience became as important as ambition.

Attempts on larger routes were repeatedly thwarted by unstable snow conditions. What had looked achievable only days earlier became serious avalanche terrain. Several exploratory pushes demonstrated just how fully buried the ice and mixed routes had become beneath fresh snow. Despite establishing high camps and pushing onto the lower reaches of Misgar Sar's complex northern ridge, conditions ultimately forced retreat.

As the expedition drew towards its conclusion, one final opportunity emerged. A prominent peak overlooking base camp had resisted earlier attempts from its northern side, but a new line from the south offered fresh possibilities. Leaving camp at 3am, they crossed scree slopes and gained a glacier basin beneath a striking snow filled gully.
The climbing was straightforward but immensely rewarding. Moving quickly through the gully, they gained a broad shoulder beneath the summit and soon stood atop a previously unclimbed 5,488m peak.

The views stretched across every corner of the valley we had explored during the previous three weeks. Named Pehredaar, meaning The Watchman, the summit felt like a fitting farewell to the valley and a reminder of how much unclimbed potential still exists amongst Misgar's mountains.

Twenty three days after leaving for the mountains, they returned to Misgar. The welcome was unforgettable. Village elders organised a celebration not only to congratulate the team but also to encourage them to share the region's remarkable climbing potential with the wider world.

Misgar offers far more than unclimbed peaks. The hospitality shown throughout their time in the valley was extraordinary, and every member of the team left feeling there was unfinished business waiting amongst its mountains. Three weeks of exploration had delivered three first ascents, countless reconnaissance opportunities and a deeper appreciation for one of Pakistan's most beautiful and least explored climbing regions.

The mountains of Misgar remain largely untouched. For adventurous climbers willing to venture beyond the well trodden paths of the Karakoram, they offer something increasingly rare, genuine exploration.

Expedition First Ascents
•    Murghi Sar - 5,587m
•    Mahal - 5,355m
•    Pehredaar - 5,488m

For more info on the MACC Fund head to our dedicated blog or the Alpine Club website linked below.

MACC Fund Blog

The Alpine Club

Leo, Thomas, Ewanl, Milo and Zaheer would like to extend their thanks to all the spnosor that made this expedition possible:

"We are all extremely keen to express our enormous gratitude to the many sponsors, equipment suppliers and supporters who made this trip both possible and financially tenable for us all. The Alpine Club, The Mount Everest Foundation and the Montane Alpine Club Climbing fund each contributed enormously to aid finances and the supply of crucial equipment. The British Mountaineering Council, The Jeremy Wilson Charitable Trust, Mountain Equipment, Mountain Safety Research and Expedition Foods supported us with funding, camping equipment and sizeable discounts on provisions."