Central Asia often catches the eye, and this time my focus was pulled to the Fann Mountains, the lesser-known mountain range in Tajikistan, west of the Pamirs. Between soaring peaks lay glittering green and blue lakes, and zero paved roads scar this pristine mountain range. It must be paradise.

Fann Mountian Stats:

• Temperature range: 10C - 40C!

• 6 Days, ~220km, +12,000m

Logistics and Gear for Tajikistan

Logistics don’t come easily in western Tajikistan. Buses don’t have timetables or even stations, so it’s a matter of trying my broken Russian and sign language to find my way to a seat on a crammed van that will take me sort of close to where I want to start from. The heat in the valley is sweltering beyond belief, and I can’t wait to reach altitude, away from civilisation. It takes me most of my first day to get dropped off in one of the last villages before the Fanns, and my pack is crammed full. There will be no shops, cafes, or any hope of resupply once I hike up into the mountains, so I have what I hope is seven days worth of food weighing me down. Aside from that, my set up is minimal: a few layers for bad weather, a bivvy, and a stove. It’s simplistic, minimalist, and, hopefully, relatively fast.

Route Finding and High-Altitude Scrambling

One of my goals for this mission was to push my own mountaineering skills and spend time off-piste. The Fann Mountains are easy for this, because there isn’t a lot of ‘piste’ to start with. There are small trail networks around the most beautiful lakes, closer to the roads in the valleys, but beyond these touristed areas, the trail map dies out. I use contour lines and satellite images to plan my route, but when I arrive on the slope, I am mostly relying on sight-navigation to pick my way over the steep passes. Some of them are higher than 4000 or even 5000m, and it’s heavy work. Finding my footing on impossibly steep ridges while coping with the altitude is a good challenge, both mentally and physically, and I feel like I am operating at the edge of my limit. That, to me, is the best place to visit.

Bivvy Spots and Starlit Recovery

At night, life is very simple. When the sun starts to dip behind the peaks, I find myself a flat piece of earth near a water source, and lay out my small insulated mat and sleeping bag to make a humble home. I wash the day off in freezing lakes and boil noodles and a cup of tea. The stars in the Fann Mountains, so far away from any large cities, are simply beyond belief. Despite the altitude, I’m warm enough most nights, and wake up early with the sun to start another day.

The Rewards of a Pathless Journey

I really enjoyed the freedom of this region. Without a “proper trail” or set route to follow, I just invented my own multi-day fastpacking trip and followed my own whims. I scared myself on high, path-less mountains, I swam in freezing but beautiful clear lakes, I slept under the stars, and I pushed my poor legs to their absolute limit. By the time I stumbled out of the Fanns onto the highway on the eastern side, I felt so rejuvenated, proud, and relaxed. If not in dire need of a shower and some proper, not freeze-dried, food.

Packing List:

• 32L Trailblazer

• Ultralight sleeping mat

• 3-season Montane sleeping bag

• Emergency 1-person UL tarp

• Water filter

• Nalgene bottle + soft flasks

• Carbon running poles

• Anti-freeze hooded jacket

• Phase-lite waterproof jacket

• Cap (for sun)

• Tuque (for cold)

• 6 days worth of dehydrated dinners, porridge, coffee, tea, carb mix, snacks (not enough!)

• Sunscreen, basic toiletries, very basic first aid kit

• Dart tee

• Shorts

• Ineo lite tights

• Protium Lite hooded fleece

• 2x socks and 2x pants